Molokai is the fifth largest Hawaiian Island. Compared to Lanai it’s a bit more developed and populated, but similar to Lanai, it doesn’t have a single traffic light on the entire island. Molokai looks like a less developed Maui, maybe Maui 50 years ago.

Flight from Lanai to Molokai is only 20 min.
Flight from Lanai to Molokai is only 20 min.

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First thing on the agenda – Kalaupapa lookout. Exploring the peninsula is only possible with an organized tour which takes at least half a day – not our cup of tea. In the past, people with leprosy were exiled to the isolated Kalaupapa town. We were satisfied with a view from above.

Steep cliffs isolate Kalaupapa peninsula
Steep cliffs isolate Kalaupapa peninsula

On the way to Hotel Molokai, we stopped at the first beach access and saw a calm and super shallow beach. Later we learned that most of the south coast is bordered with fishponds – not swimmer friendly.

Hawaiian fishponds
Hawaiian fishponds
View from the hotel's restaurant
View from the hotel’s restaurant
Hotel Molokai
Hotel Molokai

On the first day, we drove all the way to the end of the road on the east side of the island to Halawa Valley. The road becomes a one way road closer to Halawa Valley, which makes driving a bit intense. We checked out at all the beaches we noticed on the way.

Beach at mile 16.
Beach at mile 16.
Halawa valley - again accessible only by tour
Halawa valley – again accessible only by tour
Old church on the way to Halawa valley
Old church on the way to Halawa valley
These kids were having a blast surfing in a kayak
These kids were having a blast surfing in a kayak

On the same day, we drove to the drier west coast (1.5 hrs from east to west), where we stopped at Kepuhi and Dixie Beach.

Dixie beach
Dixie beach
Sunset on the west coast
Sunset on the west coast
Kepuhi beach
Kepuhi beach
Sunlight filtering through trees at Kepuhi beach
Sunlight filtering through trees at Kepuhi beach

On the second day, we went for a hike to Pelekunu lookout. It’s a slow 10 mi dirt road to Waikolu lookout. From there the quality of the road deteriorates drastically so we hiked the last 2.5 mi until we reached the start of the trail.

Waikolu viewpoint
Waikolu viewpoint
We hiked through the roughest dirt road, but there were fresh tire tracks. Some crazy person drove through these mini lakes
We hiked through the roughest dirt road, but there were fresh tire tracks. Some crazy person drove through these mini lakes

After another mile on a narrow slippery boardwalk we reached the viewpoint only to find it covered in clouds.

Despite the elevated boardwalk, we had to trash our shoes after this hike.
Despite the elevated boardwalk, we had to trash our shoes after this hike.
Hiking through mossy forest
Hiking through mossy forest
Not much of a view at the end of the trail.
Not much of a view at the end of the trail.

It was a bit challenging finding decent food on the island. Everybody was raving about the hot bread from Kanemitsus Bakery, which is served starting 7 pm. We got the strawberry and cream cheese and were not impressed. On the last day we finally found something more acceptable at Kualapu’u Cookhouse.

We've decorated and mailed some coconuts! & The hotel manager treated us to some tropical cocktails :)
We’ve decorated and mailed some coconuts! & The hotel manager treated us to some tropical cocktails 🙂

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