Stop 1: New York
Three days in New York City during the holidays turned out to be more than enough. The city was buzzing with energy, but also bursting at the seams with crowds, endless lines, and sky‑high prices. From Bryant Park’s Winter Village to Rockefeller Plaza, FAO Schwarz, Summit One Vanderbilt, and even the simplest coffee shops or restrooms downtown — everything felt nearly impossible to access.
We started our first day with classic New York bagels before wandering down Wall Street to see the New York Stock Exchange Christmas tree.
From there, we boarded the ferry to the Statue of Liberty. Thankfully, the line to climb up to the pedestal was manageable. We took all the pictures before heading back to Times Square.
Lunch at Bryant Park was quickly abandoned — the crowds made it impenetrable. Instead, we stopped outside the New York Public Library, where there was a free learning event and S tried his hand at juggling before peeking inside the library.
By mid‑afternoon, we had tickets to Summit One Vanderbilt, hoping to catch the sunset from above. After another long wait, we finally reached the top just in time to see the last glow of daylight fade. The views were stunning, and S’s highlight was the playful room filled with silver balls.
That evening, we foolishly attempted to see the Rockefeller Center Christmas tree, but so did what felt like millions of others. We gave up and found a restaurant with availability. Dinner was overpriced and forgettable, but S’s ice cream fix afterward saved the night.
The next morning, we returned to Rockefeller Plaza early enough to actually see the tree and snap some photos.
Inspired by our recent rewatch of Home Alone 2, we tried to peek into the Plaza Hotel lobby, but non‑guests are no longer allowed. So we detoured into Central Park, where we stumbled upon a quiet little trail — a rare pocket of peace in the chaos of the city.
At 10 a.m., we headed to Radio City Music Hall for the Rockettes’ Christmas Spectacular. My expectations were modest, but the show was lively and well‑done. S was captivated from start to finish.
For lunch, we braved the block-long line at Katz’s Delicatessen and were rewarded with a generous dose of pastrami sandwiches. By evening, it was time to head to the airport for our next destination.
Stop 2: Switzerland
Switzerland lived up to its reputation: clean, safe, and undeniably expensive. One thing we had forgotten, though, was how common smoking still is in Europe.
Our first stop was Zürich, where gloomy skies and chilly weather set the tone for two and a half days. Thankfully, our Airbnb was spacious and conveniently located near the train station. We began with the Christmas market right next door. S spotted someone eating dumplings, so we wandered in circles until we found them — Tibetan beef dumplings. He resisted at first, but eventually gave them a try and ended up liking them.
Lunch sorted, we followed Rick Steves’ walking tour through charming streets and viewpoints. Zürich’s river sparkled with clean water, and the city’s 1,200 fountains offered potable water everywhere. The Christmas markets were lively, though the shops felt repetitive, and the prices reminded us constantly that Switzerland is no bargain.
Dinner that night was traditional Swiss food — hearty but overpriced.
The next morning, we headed to the Lindt chocolate factory. Our tickets weren’t timed, which meant we paid double their value. The self‑guided tour included tastings, but S and I were under the weather and couldn’t enjoy much. Still, we left with far too much chocolate and more knowledge about cocoa than we ever expected.
Later, we were welcomed by my middle school friend for a cozy Moldovan‑Swiss lunch: zeama / soup, Olivie salad, and raclette (melted cheese over potatoes).
S nearly fell asleep in the warmth, so we ventured back outside to wake him up with another Christmas market stroll and a stop at the Sprungli café for their famous Luxemburgerli (mini macarons).
That evening, we tried fondue at La Dezaley. It was a one‑time experience, but the 9 CHF charge for tap water and the waiter’s push for a tip (not customary in Switzerland) left us unimpressed.
By then, my body had given up. S and I took a day off to rest while E explored Lucerne.
After Zürich’s gray skies, arriving in Murren felt like stepping into another world. The sun was shining, the mountain air was crisp, and the views were breathtaking.
We dropped our bags and headed straight up to the Schilthorn. We had lunch at the rotating restaurant, and at Birg we braved the “thrill walk.” S confidently walked across a narrow cable without hesitation.
That evening, we stumbled upon a small sledding spot with panoramic mountain views and learned about a larger 3‑km sledding path accessible by train. Our hotel room had an amazing view to the mountains, and despite the cold, we savored a drink on the balcony as the sun set.
The next day was dedicated to Jungfraubahn — the “Top of Europe.” After five different trams and cable cars, we reached the summit. The tour included an ice tunnel leading outside, but the frigid air was too much for S, so we stayed indoors.
Back in Mürren, we rented sleds and tackled the mountain sledding trek. The first turns were rough, but by the bottom we had found our rhythm. Dinner at the hotel capped off the day, though once again we were charged for tap water and nudged for a tip.
Two nights in Mürren were enough; the dry air and constant elevation changes wore us down. On our way back to Zürich airport, we stopped in Bern for a few hours. The old town walk from Rick Steves’ guide revealed a charming little city, and S discovered a new love: churros.
After 2.5 days in Zürich, mountain adventures in Murren, and a quick taste of Bern, we were ready to trade Switzerland’s cold, pricey charm for the warmer weather awaiting us in Portugal.
Stop 3: Portugal
After some delays, we finally arrived in Lisbon late at night. An Uber took us from the airport to our Airbnb in Baixa neighborhood of Lisbon — the perfect downtown location. After a quick tour of the apartment from the owner, we collapsed into bed.
The next morning greeted us with sunshine and a nice view of the water. Portugal quickly won us over with its walkability — we averaged 8.5 miles a day, most of them up and down countless steps.
Lisbon is so photogenic. I took more pictures here than anywhere else on our trip: colorful tiled houses, ancient castles, winding alleyways, and sweeping viewpoints.
Breakfast at Pastelaria Santo António introduced us to the famous pastel de nata — flaky, creamy, and absolutely delicious. Food in Portugal was not only tasty but refreshingly affordable compared to Switzerland.
We climbed up to São Jorge Castle, perched on the city’s highest hill, then wandered through Lisbon’s charming streets.
Lunch at Time Out Market offered a wide variety of local dishes, and we couldn’t stop at just two.
In the afternoon we hopped on a one‑hour tram tour to rest our legs (though S insisted on standing the whole time).
By evening, we stumbled upon a lively musical show on the main street, performed every 30 minutes. To our delight, our apartment was just around the corner, so we could hear and watch the performance from home.
Day two took us to Sintra, a town once favored by kings. We ambitiously squeezed in four castles and palaces, which meant a lot of walking.
We started at the National Palace of Pena, an impressive red‑and‑yellow castle perched high above the town. The crowds were intense, but much of the exterior could be explored freely, while timed tickets gave access to the interior.
From there, a 30‑minute walk led us to the Moorish Castle, where we climbed ancient walls and towers straight out of a fairy tale.
Another half‑hour walk brought us to the National Palace of Sintra, a royal residence for centuries. S was thrilled by a free carousel ride at the Christmas market in front of the palace before we explored inside.
Our final stop was Quinta da Regaleira, a large estate with waterfalls, gardens, underground tunnels, and the famous Initiation Well — a spiral staircase descending into the earth. The line to enter was long, but the experience was worth it. Exhausted, we skipped the manor’s interior and focused on the gardens before catching an Uber back to the train station that took us back to Lisbon just in time for “early” dinner.
Dinner was at Taberna, one of chef José Avillez’s family‑friendly restaurants. Thanks to Portugal’s late dining culture, we easily found a table. It was the perfect finale to our Christmas trip through Europe.
